Is the resistance between 4 and 10 ohms? Step 16: Check the signal return circuit for an open. Does the scan tool indicate that this diagnostic failed this ignition? Seeing that put a smile on my face. I replaced the batteries shortly after this. We're actually discussing this on the Mafia site. The Sensor is a three wire. Would this sensor be a logical place to start or what, if anything, should I look at before getting any parts? Again - you don't clean electronics.
Don't waste your time or money with simple code readers or hand-held. I've never done one that was customer pay, but I would probably bid the job at 24 hours which I think is fair. My son is joining the site as we try to diagnose his first diesel. If the test light illuminates, the 5 volt reference circuit is shorted to ground. If there is 12 volts, then repair short to voltage in the 5 volt reference circuit. We are talking almost 8 years! She idles good I just have no power when I put it in gear to move.
Made it home after it did this there times. The adapter powered up with no problem when I connected to a co-worker's Tacoma. What size my valve cores are or if the following would fit both high and low sides? Kudos to Powerstroker for posting that photo to illustrate that to you. Anyway if it makes you feel better the crankshaft in that 6. The motor has 122k miles on it. If there is no 5 volts, is there any voltage at all? I have a 2006 F-250 6.
Tightened it back down and it seems ok. No ridge on the top of the cylinder either. Hell if they at least put 6 long bolts on the sides these leaks prolly would never happen. Some butchers just hack off the first converter, but I do it right. I dont need another truck.
If it illuminates, then the signal circuit is shorted to ground. Hell if they at least put 6 long bolts on the sides these leaks prolly would never happen. Check the area and connector well. Not sure how long this residue has been there, but it is still wet, so its not all hardened. I have an 06 F350 diesel Looking to find were the sensor is, if it is a sensor that I can replace. Vehicle is a recovered theft and it was recovered with all parts. Did you find and correct the condition? I can see why he is angry, but at -50 degrees, I am sure its anything but big.
I don't think one bad plug would cause a no start, however coupled with too much oil possibly? I never seen it coming. So I'm thinking ficm is going out. Maybe it's just loose intercooler pipe bolts? Warranty pays approx 14-18 hours depending on what labor ops can be legitimately claimed and if anything else is being fixed at the same time. Pretty tough back in those days. I got a little oily residue on my hood here. I would call it moist not wet but fairly moist.
Kudos to Powerstroker for posting that photo to illustrate that to you. Changed fuel filters, unplugged icp no start still. Egr delete, new oil cooler, cat and muffler delete, upgraded Y turbo pipe. Shop for Auto Code Readers on Amazon. It appears Angry Hillbillys calls did not go unanswered.
You need a new valve. I refuse to give myself a vote of confidence. If you manage to find some photos, take a close look and compare them to the Powerstroke 6. I even drove her around for about 20 min. It very well could be under warranty - depends on the state you live in. I bet you feel so good about yourself right now.
Truck starts right up after a few minutes and otherwise runs great. This can happen for multiple reasons and a mechanic needs to diagnose the specific cause for this code to be triggered in your situation. One question for you PowerStroker. Currently there is a charge on the system but its low. I removed the exhaust manifolds from the heads to start cleaning them up and replacing the exhaust bolts rust. This is a two pin unit on my year. I did what I could to learn about glow plug timers and such.