No torque specs are given in the service manual. I took the opportunity to paint the intake valve covers on this car. Also lube up the seals on the solenoid spool the part where you insert the solenoid with lithium grease. If the injectors haven't been soaking in Blaster, soak themnow. This is the on the driver side of the engine bay, near the firewall.
Install outer ends into the two hoses and seal against the block. Ifthe throttle body water jackets were not bypassed, reconnect the twohoses at the very rear of the plenum first 23. Otherwise this has all been eliminated in step 25 above. I'd replace every rubber hose under there. Refer to the timing belt replacement tech page for details. The colour I decided on after another month or so of pondering and research was Matt Griego grey by Avery Denison. Remove the fuel rails along with the Fuel Pressure Regulator and Fuel Damper 5 x 10mm socket 9.
I just can't get in under the head with pliers or anything to pull the piece out. Replace all fuel hose couplings with new high pressure fuel hose. Remove the keepers blue dot in 11. If that doesn't loosen it, try tapping it to the side. Be careful not to break the plastic breather openings on the underside of the cover.
Use zip ties to secure the nipples. Removing the exhaust cam covers blue dot in 30. The front of the car is to the left. Pull them straight up and the hoses will come off the intake tubing. Note the flat orientation withthe edge of the cap. The green X is the clutch vacuum assist tank.
Peelout the rubber gasket, remove the rubber screw insulators, use achemical paint stripper using all cautionary methods: safety glasses,chemical resistant gloves, etc. Use degreaser to clean the inside if necessary. . Exhaust flow is from top to bottom. Pinching this line will kill a turbo in short order.
Remove the plug from the passenger rear corner of the plenum on the top 1 x 14 mm bolt 45. Repeat for all 6 injectors. Disconnect the small hose that is coupled with the small hose from the upper fuel rail off the brake booster fitting tree yellow dot in 20. Image 23 shows the passenger side mount. Hers a photo essay of the progress. Bypassing the throttle body water jackets 25. Remove center trim cover 4 x 5mm Hex head bolts green dot in 1.
Hose can be seen already moved to to return pipe at the bottom of 73. The outside front nut just has to be done by hand and takes some patience. Torque nut to 32-43 ft. Disconnect the safety boost cutsolenoid plugs on each side. Disconnecting the Battery Disconnect carefully by loosening both the terminals.
The wires might be trapped by keepers. The car will need to be on a lift or at least. Image 5 shows the retainer and gasket Image 5. Remove the wiring bracket from the plenum. I found it useful to push the tube down into the hole with my right hand from the top to steady the flare nut, and then get it started with my left hand.
Replacing and Packing Rearrange anything that you had set aside from the area — the wires, harnesses, etc. Cut a matching length of high pressure fuel hose to reconnect the rail halves to each other. The bottom of the engine is complete! Tighten all four covers in a crisscross pattern. Be careful not to breakthe plastic breather openings on the underside of the cover. Remove any of the old injector seals in the lower intake that didn't come out with the injectors.
Image 32 shows stamp on end journal cap. I won't post photos of the welding because while the joints are now strong and sealed, it's doesn't make for a pretty sight going over porosity and poorly done repairs. For these, simply squeeze the clip and pull them off. Slip the throttle body linkages into the mid linkage fittings. Generally when one injector fails, the others follow inshort order.