Refer to the illustration above. The following are the steps we took to find the cause of this issue and our thought processes along the way. That was all trial and error after wrapping the filter failed to keep the smoke back and just a single rubber band wasn't enough to keep the bag on the intake hose when I blew in the brake booster. All H02 sensors are the same except for the wire length, and connectors. I can remove the sensor end no problem -- that is easy to reach, but the plugs are so far up inside the body of the car that I can't weave my hand in there to reach them.
This fails by not allowing vacuum to pull gas into the engine. What they heck do you have to disassemble to get to those connectors that will take 3. On certain vehicle applications the oil level indicator hole on the right side of the block is not used. This vehicle was tied up for about two weeks and our actual diagnostic time was roughly 9 hours in total. Do not use paints, lubricants, or corrosion inhibitors on fasteners or fastener joint surfaces unless specified. The last important step i can have you do is see if you have a disconnected pcv hose under front of plastic intake.
Let it drink it in with small sips, then dunked the hose and let it stall the engine actually, it took the whole can and didn't die, so we turned off the engine. Backyard Smoke Test - 1 Remove Air filter. Not sure if that means with engine off or running at idle. Mi 2006 Chevrolet trailblazer Vortec 4. You can also observe up to 16 graphs side by side if you like. Start this job by removing the wiper blades, then release all the screws, including the ones that support the wiper motor , that hold that big black plastic valence at the back of the engine compartment. Another short drive and the code did not set again.
The job of the catalytic converter is to convert harmful pollutants into less harmful emissions before they ever leave the car's exhaust system. Suggested keeping on the vacuum leak trail again or maybe a leak in the exhaust system? You'll need a tester that not only reads codes but monitors sensor output. A pretty big pill for the customer to swallow! I think you hit the nail on the head with the loose clamps, any unmetered air would of caused your P0171. Typically the code will be triggered by a lean condition in the engine. Agree vac leak is most common. Thanks for the link -- now if only I can figure out how to get to the connectors from the top or bottom , I'll actually replace them.
Take notes or digital pics along the way so you can pop it all back together. On the trail, and not giving up! The four parameters that popped out immediately were short and long term fuel trims and front and rear O2 sensors. Most customers are not willing to pay for diagnostics, especially if they are going to take more than one hour. When you see a drastic change in a sensor reading like the front O2 was producing here, either there is a connection issue, sensor failure or or there is unwarranted amounts of oxygen suddenly in the exhaust system. It also throws the code P0171 to let you know that it has done this.
Yes, sorry -- it is the 5. The vehicle service manual should be consulted for more information on possible causes of the fault, along with required testing. The short and long term fuel trims and coolant temperatures were very close the two previous times the code set. Will try that again tomorrow idle 4 min, drive 18 min 45-55 mph, idle 2 min. In the fuel gauge tester booklet -- it lists the 5.
It doesn't come on right away, or every time it is driven -- and the only noticeable symptom is rough idling but that is only noticable sometimes. I ran the car hard and didn't pull any codes, but we'll see. This would make it a electrical problem what stands out is having P0443 and P1682 Inorder to have a P1682 the voltage would have to get short to ground. Thanks for all of your help so far! Another advantage of a movie recording is that you can see the point where the record button was pushed and move the graphs forward and backward from there. It says that the downstream sensors should be settling in to an average voltage of about.
Here are the typical symptoms that something is wrong when you have code P0171. Anything I can do in the home garage to try that or is that over a rookie's head? If you want these steps performed by a certified Mechanic, dispatched by right to your location, please request a and the responding certified mechanic will get this taken care of for you. Also how could the leak not be there when the engine was cold, then appear for a short period of time during warm up and then seal itself off again for the duration of the drive? After driving it for a short errand, I stopped at a stop sign, turned off the key and gave the reset code. I think you hit the nail on the head with the loose clamps, any unmetered air would of caused your P0171. Do this sound like a fuel pump going bad weak pressure? The heater signals are usually the same color, and should measure a resistance like a heating element.
If smoke test passes, then focus will be on the fuel pressure. Regardless, that doesn't change my mind on paying if the advice proves to be the solution. The difference in readings between step 3 and step 5 should be greater than 8 kPa and in the range of 8-12 kPa. By the rear O2 reacting the same as the front O2 this told us both sensors are likely to just be doing what they are supposed to do. The idea is to block all are going into the Intake. Rented a fuel pressure gauge from Autozone. Ran ½ can Seafoam in one tank of gas Low fuel pressure or running out of fuel fuel pump, filter, fuel supply line restrictions 1.